Lobuche & Ama Dablam Expedition.
This year is the first expedition of Ama Dablam (6856m) with Lobuche peak (6119m); organize by “Nepal Sherpa Guide Team”. I led this expedition me “Domi Sherpa” Team leader of Nepal Sherpa Guide Team. We named for expedition “Kerstin & Eva Lobuche and Ama Dablam Expedition 2016” Luckily this year we had stable and settled weather throughout the expedition. This is the normal weather conditions expected in Nepal during November when usually a blocking high pressure sits over the Himalaya resulting in sunny conditions. Where as last year’s weather was rather unusual as a cyclonic system drifted into the Himalaya causing a lot of rain and cloudy weather.
There were two clients (Kerstin & Eva) in our Lobuche and Ama Dablam Expedition 2016 from a Germany. I led this trip along with Rinji Sherpa and Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa. We had three porters for whole trip Lhakpa Tamang, Lakhdan Rai & Dill Rai. For Ama Dablam Base Camp cook, Kaila Tamang, and his amazing kitchen crew along with us, as ever we were given very tasty food throughout.
Kerstin & Eva arrived at kathamandu on November 8th at 11.20am from Germany then drive hotel had a rest because of long air travel. Next day 9th of November gear checking day, we checked gear some missing gear took from Kathmandu. On November 10th Rinji, Kerstin & Eva flew to Lukla 6.30am and I flew at 7.30am because of expedition load not carrying on one flight Lhakpa waited at lukla after finishing his trip of Mera Peak after a cup of tea in Numbur Lodge Rinji, Lhakpa, Kerstin & Eva started trekking to Phakding village where we spent our first night. I and porters also started trekking to Phakding village everyone met Phakding at afternoon. Everyone enjoyed the walk in way to Everest Base camp via Namche , Tengboche & Dingboche.
On November 14th on the way to Dingboche. Took blessing from lama Tengboche rimpoche(Head Lama of Tengboche monastery) at morning before tea & breakfast and enjoy taking pictures of the monastery and the amazing landscape. We descend after for about half an hour through a forest before crossing a river. Next, we trek uphill and notice that as we climb higher, the landscape becomes drier. We walk past a traditional Sherpa village of Upper Pangboche visit there taking the blessing from lama Ghese at his home for expedition safe & success then had lunch break at lower pangboche front of Ama Dablam after lunch we head to Dingboche.
On November 16th we walked Lobuche at 4,910m via Dhugla after having tea & soup at Dhugla we trek up the steep terminal moraine of the Khumbu Glacier, and then pass through the boulder-strewn slopes as we ascend Chupki Lhara where we find an array of stones with prayer flags used as memorials to Scott Fischer (American mountaineer) and 10-time Everest summitter Babu Chiri Sherpa (Nepalese mountain guide) who perished on a mission to climb Everest. The trail then continues to the Khumbu Glacier moraine and we find ourselves facing several great peaks – Khumbutse, Lingtren, Pumori and Mahalangur Himal. Afternoon we arrived Lobuche check in room had some rest with cup of tea after rest me, Kerstin & Eva climbed Lobuche la 5410m.
On November 17th Lobuche to High Camp (5,400m) From Lobuche, we trek towards Lobuche base camp. After walking some distance on relatively flatter plane, the path to the Lobuche Base Camp gets steeper and rocky. We move forward along the Lobuche Glacier while enjoying great views of Ama Dablam, Cholatse, Pokalde, Thamserku, Kantega and other Himalayas. From the base camp, we continue on a rocky moraine path to reach the High Camp. After reaching there, we set up our camp, Rinji cook tea & soup after rest and food I gave some fix rope climbing practice. We had early dinner & bed because of mid night will start climbing lobuche peak.
On November 18th Summit day of Lobuche Peak(6119m)We wake up early today at 1.00 am Rinji cook tea & breakfast I bring water from frozen small lake. After tea and breakfast around at 2.00am we started climbing Lobuche peak finally Rinji & Kerstin got on top of Lobuche at around 6.00am after 20min me & Eva got on top of Lobuche because of Eva is slow catch her by cold before high camp of Lobuche peak. From the summit, get to enjoy magnificent views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, Cholatse, Pumori, and many more. We spend some time at the summit celebrating and taking pictures, then we get back to the High Camp again had some soup & tea after clearing our camp site 11.00am we head down to Dingboche for perfect rest & food. On the way to Dingboche had rest at Dhugla Eva feels more bad that’s why, I gave her antibiotic Amoxicillin pills for anti chest infection and cold.
On November 19th we begin by trekking back to Pangboche had lunch break and crossing the Dudh Koshi River. Next we ascend on a trail which will take us to the Ama Dablam Base Camp (4600m). The Base Camp is a large open grassy area where we will be spending the rest of the day for acclimatization. Afternoon we arrived Ama Dablam Base Camp meet cook kaila tamang & two kitchen helpers. We took two separate tents for Kerstin & Eva for Sherpa another two. We had rest met one already been top of Ama Dablam another looking forward to getting on top was great meeting with them great experience sharing with us. Kerstin & Eva enjoyed nice & delicious food with warm heated dinning tent.
On November 20th , 21st , 22nd we had a rest day at Ama Dablam Base Camp because of bad weather forecast that’s why we plan for summit day 25th of November because of less wind and good window. 21st of November had puja and hang our prayer flag on hill for safe & success climbing for Ama Dablam Expedition.
On November 23rd after breakfast around at 10.00 am we head up to Camp one (5700m) of Ama Dablam. Today Kerstin feeling not so well because of catch her by cold. We took around 5 and half hours to get there. Before getting camp I send Lhakpa for camp setting, cooking tea or hot drink when we arrived at camp one tea is ready there me and Kerstin got camp one before Rinji & Eva. Everyone got cup of tea at camp one. After tea had soup and dinner then we had rest in the tent with warm sleeping tent.
On November 24th after breakfast we head up to camp two (6110m) with harness and with climbing boot after crossing camp site of camp one start climbing with fix rope to camp two. On the way to camp two found less ice more rock traverse, climbing, crossing yellow tower. We took around four to five hours to get there because of traffic at yellow tower below of camp two. Today also same as before camp one Lhakpa went before us for camp setting & cooking tea I wait at top of yellow tower because of pulling up Kerstin, Eva, Rinji & some UK Clients from another group. After reaching camp two had tea and soup with adventure packed food. We sleep early because midnight heading up to the top of Aam Dablam.
On November 25th we wake at mid night Lhakpa & Rinji prepare breakfast & tea for everyone. After breakfast and tea prepare won climbing gear on then we start climbing around at 2.20am at night. Today Lhakpa led climbing after camp two some slow groups are already started climb before one hour but we catch them on the way then had big traffic that’s why took so long for climbing some place we need slack rope but too many people hanging one rope then impossible to get slack rope then putting new rope pulling up and crossing ice hanging not so easy that’s why everyone taking long because of altitude over 6000m. At 9.00am we cross most of hard part up to summit. After crossing hard part Kerstin filling little bit of weak but she reach at 6400m around 10.30am then she decided to back down to camp two but Rinji and Eva head to summit then I send down Kerstin with Lhakpa for safely bring down her. I flow Rinji & Eva on the way to summit met before one and half hour to summit finally we summit on top of Ama Dablam at 1.00pm. From the summit, get to enjoy magnificent views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Cholatse, Pumori, and many more. We spend some time at the summit celebrating and taking pictures, then we get back to camp two took long because of traffic of slow UK team & battery dead of head lamp that’s hardly get back camp to at night 10.00pm at night means twenty hours continue climbing. After getting camp two we found Kerstin fall sleep Lhakpa wake cook soup & tea for us after that had good rest in the tent.
On November 26th we wake late because of everyone got tired after climbing Ama Dablam around 7.00am had tea and breakfast after breakfast everyone start packing won equipment Lhakpa call to base camp for help cook replied Anup sending up to camp one. Everyone finish packing won equipment just tent is left for packing. Me, Kerstin & Eva start head down Rinji and Lhakpa came after clearing camp two they catch us on the way to camp two. We are heading nearby camp one we met Anup Rai with hot juice & fruits we had all then we continue climb down to camp one after reaching camp one we had rest, tea and snack after tea and snack Lhakpa, Rinji, Kerstin & Eva head base camp me & Anup start clearing camp one after we are also start head down to base camp afternoon around 4.30pm we arrived base camp but Lhakpa, Rinji, Kerstin & Eva reach base camp around 45 min before us. Had tea, good food & everyone had good sleep.
On November 27th today had rest day at Ama Dablam Base Camp for drying cloth, washing, recover body and more.
On November 28th Today’s walk will be a much easier as we descend to the lower altitudes. Following the same route back through the wide valley of Khumbu Khola, we pass through the beautiful Sherpa villages Pangboche. Pangboche is a scenic village surrounded by Everest to its north, Amadablam, Thamserku, and Kangtaiga to the east, the Kongde range . From Tengboche, we continue through the hillside blanketed by rhododendron and juniper trees. After crossing the bridge over the Dudh Koshi River, our trail follows the Dudh Koshi gorge descending rapidly through the pine forests before reaching Sansa. We keep a lookout for wildlife such as mountain goats, colorful pheasants, etc., while passing through the forest. After passing a chorten, we reach the army camp at Namche Bazaar.
On November 29th today trail descends steeply downward so we need to walk cautiously as our shaky legs continuously battle the rocky terrain. After crossing the suspension bridges over the fast flowing Dudh Koshi and its tributaries, the trail becomes more level and natural. After our arrival in Lukla, we stretch those sore legs and recall the experiences of the last three weeks. Last day celebration with everyone porters, climbing guides & guest had dinner together with alcohol drinks but dance is missing any way.
On November 30th we wanted catch an early morning flight to Kathmandu but our scheduled flight is 1st of December that’s why we flew Kathmandu at 11.00am after our long mountain journey. After reaching Kathmandu Kerstin & Eva had rest at Hotel I and Rinji back to rented place spend time with kid & wife.
On December 1st today Kerstin & Eva wants to do sightseeing with culture guide but German guides are busy today because of I call just one day before. Then we decided to go motorbike tour. We meet hotel at 10.00am then went to the motorbike ranting shop then we took two motorbikes for riding. Had a beautiful ride via Nagarkot, Sankhu, Bouddhanath, thamel.
On December 2nd today shopping day evening we met for Farewell dinner together with three climbing guide & guest.
On December 3rd today departure to home.